Kat's 10L pico!

…and everything smaller!

Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby Perfectblue » 2008-08-21 05:12

KittyKat wrote:Lighting is 24W Interpet PC (power compact) with a 50/50 actinic/daylight bulb with a reflector behind it. Felt like a bit of an overkill for the previous tank (which turned out to hold only 6 litres or so).


That amount of lighting for the tank size is in my opinion considered low lighting. So you would have to stick with lower light corals, Mushrooms and Zoas are good choices. Kenya Tree(Capnella sp.) should do fine in the tank placed on the live rock closer to the light. If you upgraded or added more lighting it would give you more options for coral.

KittyKat wrote:For water movement, I have two 200lph filters, both at the back, one on each side (one facing along the back past the heater and the other facing the front of the tank to help circulate the water. This means that at the front of the tank, there is not much water movement, but plenty of light (in the centre) and not as much on the sides. There is quite a lot of movement across the top of the rock I currently have, but there are also some dead spots in between where the movement is very slow.


With the two powerheads combined you have around 100gph of water movement which equals around 14x turnover for your tank. This is a decent turnover rate for most Softies, particularly Mushrooms and Zoas. If you wanted to keep LPS corals you would need to increase the total turnover rate.

KittyKat wrote:The only problem with shrimp is that I can't buy any locally (unless I want to go to a shop that stocks dyed fish, and even then it would be £20 a shrimp for the cheapest), so I will have to try and find a reputable online trader who stocks what I want, which may take some time anyway!
I quite like the look of harlequin shrimp (Hymenocera elegans) but do not like the idea of feeding them starfish.. is there anything similar that would be happier with just frozen or pellets? What about sexy shrimp? Would I be limited to just the one shrimp in a tank that size?


I don't like the idea either, also the Starfish would have to be kept in a separate tank. Sexy Shrimp(Thor amboinensis) are very beautiful and interesting inverts. They can be kept in small groups, with the tank size you could keep 3-5 comfortably. However they are quite expensive from what I've seen. I have read a few accounts of Sexy Shrimp nipping at coral, especially if not fed enough. Spot feeding them with pellets seems to be the best method, but certainly worth it. If you went with a larger species of Shrimp like a Scarlet Skunk Cleaner I would go with only one.

KittyKat wrote:I will look into snails, but they're not really that much of my thing.. I did have a few to start off with, but one ended up being crab food (crab came in on LR) and the other tried to get into the filter outlet and managed to get stuck somehow and then became crab food (not much success there as you can see!) There are still a few small ones about, but I don't really tend to see them that often.


Well the snails are more for cleaning. Yeah Hermit crabs can be pretty aggressive towards snails, that is why having spare shells helps with this.

Any other questions just ask.
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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby KittyKat » 2008-08-28 21:12

Perfectblue wrote:That amount of lighting for the tank size is in my opinion considered low lighting. So you would have to stick with lower light corals, Mushrooms and Zoas are good choices. Kenya Tree(Capnella sp.) should do fine in the tank placed on the live rock closer to the light. If you upgraded or added more lighting it would give you more options for coral.

Aye, I agree! I will probably be upgrading it to some nicer lighting though now that I have the job and can get it with a staff discount.
Perfectblue wrote:With the two powerheads combined you have around 100gph of water movement which equals around 14x turnover for your tank. This is a decent turnover rate for most Softies, particularly Mushrooms and Zoas. If you wanted to keep LPS corals you would need to increase the total turnover rate.

I think I will stick to softies for the moment! Do the LPS need the strong flow rates or the turnover? And if it is the turnover, then why?
Perfectblue wrote:I don't like the idea either, also the Starfish would have to be kept in a separate tank. Sexy Shrimp(Thor amboinensis) are very beautiful and interesting inverts. They can be kept in small groups, with the tank size you could keep 3-5 comfortably. However they are quite expensive from what I've seen. I have read a few accounts of Sexy Shrimp nipping at coral, especially if not fed enough. Spot feeding them with pellets seems to be the best method, but certainly worth it. If you went with a larger species of Shrimp like a Scarlet Skunk Cleaner I would go with only one.

I think I will stick to corals only for now with an outlook to get some shrimp in a few month's time. I already spot feed frozen foods to my hermits (so tank doesn't get too messy), so the shrimps won't be a problem. I have found out that the crab is definitely an emerald as there were some at the shop I could compare to.
Perfectblue wrote:Well the snails are more for cleaning. Yeah Hermit crabs can be pretty aggressive towards snails, that is why having spare shells helps with this.

I have plenty of spare shells about the tank for the crabs, I got a range of different sizes before I bought the hermits so they would have a good choice available.. as it happens to be, the shells didn't get used as one was only a cm across and the other was smaller.


More photos!

Before substrate:
Image

After substrate:
Image

Still need to get a background and more rock!
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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby dekker » 2008-08-29 07:18

hi kat
thats looking really nice.


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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby Perfectblue » 2008-08-31 09:46

KittyKat wrote:I think I will stick to softies for the moment! Do the LPS need the strong flow rates or the turnover? And if it is the turnover, then why?


Different species of coral live in different areas and at different depths in the ocean, some with more flow than other areas. That is why they all have there own requirements for flow.

Here is a rough guideline for total turnover:

FOWLR - 10-15x

Softies - 15-20x

LPS - 20-30x

SPS - 30 - 60x

Other things need to be considered as well but that is a good guideline to follow. When it comes to flow it is important to have random or chaotic flow, instead of direct flow. Basically meaning you want flow going in all different directions, not just one direction. Having the flow of the powerheads crossing each other causing turbulent flow. Bouncing the flow of a powerhead off a side of the tank is also good. The main thing you want to avoid is having a powerhead pointed directly at a coral which could cause harm to it.

Hopefully this makes sense.
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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby Perfectblue » 2008-09-20 22:06

How is the tank doing?
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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby KittyKat » 2008-09-21 21:00

All great! Will be updating with photos sometime in the next few days ;)
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Re: Kat's 30L nano!

Postby KittyKat » 2008-09-23 20:24

Perfectblue wrote:Different species of coral live in different areas and at different depths in the ocean, some with more flow than other areas. That is why they all have there own requirements for flow.

Thanks for the info, flow rates it is then! So.. would I be able to keep corals that require a high flow rate near the powerheads and those that don't away from them?

When it comes to flow it is important to have random or chaotic flow, instead of direct flow. Basically meaning you want flow going in all different directions, not just one direction. Having the flow of the powerheads crossing each other causing turbulent flow. Bouncing the flow of a powerhead off a side of the tank is also good. The main thing you want to avoid is having a powerhead pointed directly at a coral which could cause harm to it.

*Check!* Got one going along the heater and one to the front of the tank so got them crossing!

Hopefully this makes sense.

Aye ;)

How is the tank doing?

Where shall I start... with the new job I have been getting lots of corals going through my tank and some have been shedding bits here and there so I now have more then expected including a pulsing xenia, polyps and an odd hard one which I can't ID.. will get pics at some point! I still have a few sitting on my camera from when I upgraded the tank! Also a new development is a frogfish (Antennarius maculatus) aka an angler fish which is feeding very well on live shrimp, but is still to make a transition to frozen... converting it is slow and painful but hours of dangling produce good results.

Anyways, photos to follow... at *some* point, as soon as I get a second spare!
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Re: Kat's 30L nano!

Postby Perfectblue » 2008-09-28 06:32

KittyKat wrote: So.. would I be able to keep corals that require a high flow rate near the powerheads and those that don't away from them?


Well not necessarily next to the powerheads. Corals that are placed in the direct path of the flow from a powerhead can suffer tissue damage. Although to answer your question yes. Place the corals that need higher amounts of flow in areas with more flow, and vise versa with corals that prefer lower amounts of flow.

This relates to lighting also. If you have any corals that need more light then placing them on top of the rock structure closer to the light will help. It depends on what type of coral but generally LPS prefer more light.

The main thing you have to do is play around with the placement of the corals to find out what works best.

Frogfish are very interesting. If you can I would love to see some pictures of it.

Good luck.
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Re: Kat's 30L nano!

Postby KittyKat » 2008-09-29 21:44

Perfectblue wrote:Well not necessarily next to the powerheads. Corals that are placed in the direct path of the flow from a powerhead can suffer tissue damage. Although to answer your question yes. Place the corals that need higher amounts of flow in areas with more flow, and vise versa with corals that prefer lower amounts of flow.

That seems to be working and I assume the hard coral is doing well as it has covered a bit more area and gone very bushy.
Perfectblue wrote:This relates to lighting also. If you have any corals that need more light then placing them on top of the rock structure closer to the light will help. It depends on what type of coral but generally LPS prefer more light.

Ditto.
Perfectblue wrote:The main thing you have to do is play around with the placement of the corals to find out what works best.

Check.
Perfectblue wrote:Frogfish are very interesting. If you can I would love to see some pictures of it.

Trying to get photos, but he's very shy! Working on getting him used to having me around and especially trying to not let me see him while he's trying to lure the crab out with his little fishing rod (complete with a miniature lionfish-lookalike on the end). I was actually feeding the crabs today and he went mental when he saw the mysis shrimp and had good fun trying to catch them, so frozen food training going well!
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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby KittyKat » 2008-10-27 22:17

After the revamp:

Image

Will try to get some nicer shots, just a bit low on time atm!
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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby dekker » 2008-10-28 11:04

very nice looking tank kat :)



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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby Perfectblue » 2008-10-29 13:18

Tank looks great. I see that the Frogfish is out, beautiful animal. :)

Keep us posted.
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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby KittyKat » 2008-10-31 19:27

Aye, he is! He does spend about 90% of his time out and about looking for food and trying to lure this guy out:

Image

Any idea on what he is? Crappy photo, but he really does not like staying out if I'm around! This is the mystery crab who came in on some LR I got early on..
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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby Perfectblue » 2008-11-01 01:54

I think it is a Gorilla Crab, but I'm not 100% sure.
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Re: Kat's 10L pico!

Postby KittyKat » 2008-11-01 21:17

In that case, time to try and catch out!
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